I guess they know it's safe

Nearly every day lately one can see a large flock of wild turkeys along State Road 54 just east of Bloomfield. The picture's detail isn't too good, but here they are.

Warm floors

It is getting cold and we're not quite ready to install the radiant floor heating system, but I thought I'd show how the system goes together. Our system is produced by The FloorHeat Company. Their web site explains the system in more detail. It is mostly a do-it-yourself process.

It starts with a thin sheet of foil that goes directly on the OSB floor panels. The foil is covered by 16-inch square plastic grids which snap together to cover the entire floor. Metal pieces are snapped into the grids. These will help transfer the heat from the plastic tubing which will be snapped into all of the grids to the panels which cover the grids. The panels are then covered by the laminate floor panels. The tubes are attached to a panel which contains a tankless water heater and a pump to move the heated water throughout the system.

Here is a grid, a metal piece, and how they fit together. Of course there are hundreds of them in the system.

When all the components are together it will look something like this:


You can see four of the laminate panels snapped together. Under them is a 3'X 5' cement board panel. Under that are the plastic grids. The foil is not shown because I don't want to put it down until we're ready to do the installation. Finally, the OSB panels can be seen.

Notice the piece of 2X4 next to the floor system. It is the same thickness as the system. This allows us to build a wooden grid in closets and under cabinets that will have the same laminate sheets on them but will not be heated.

I forgot to take a picture of the control panel. I'll do that after the plastic tubing (PEX) is installed and the system is ready to go.

Has it been that long?

Once again, time has flown and I haven't posted for over two weeks. I've got a few pictures to share. I'll start with a follow-up on the previous post.

Using a 1" X 4" strip of wood behind the top of the drywall sheets did the trick. The drywall is solidly supported at the top, just as if there had been a full nailer there. It turns out attaching the strip to the drywall before erecting it wasn't necessary. In fact, doing so made it harder to get the drywall in place. It worked a lot better to just slide the wood strip up behind the 2" X 10" board at the top of the wall. The pressure from the packed cellulose behind the tarp section kept it in place while the drywall was screwed to it.

Here's a picture of an installed drywall sheet showing a section of the wood strip to the left of it. You can see the 2" X 10" board that runs the length of the long walls. The white on the board is from raising the ceiling drywall and will wipe off. I plan to sand the board smooth and cover the nails which hold the boards to the barn's main posts.



All the drywall in the apartment has been installed except for a few wall sections that will have water tubes in them. These need not be finished right now, and getting heat in the building is a higher priority. The next post shows what we're doing for heat.

Getting the walls straight

I have been worried that the drywall on the outside walls will eventually bend in toward the room because of the pressure of the cellulose stuffed behind it. The drywall will be screwed into 2x2 "nailers" at the bottom and 2x4 nailers every two feet up the wall as well as into the 4x6's every 8 feet along the wall. But at the top of the east-west-running walls there is a 2x10 that supports the roof trusses. It is nailed inside the 4x6 posts. This means the drywall will come up under, but not behind, the 2x10's.

As an aside, when I first realized the 2x10s were at the top of the east-west-running walls I worried I would have to build those walls inside them. Instead we decided to make them an architectural "feature" and leave them exposed along the entire length of the north and south walls, even in the bedroom and bathroom. I'll sand them down and "spackle" them to hide the seams and nails, just like drywall, so when molding is added and they are painted it will not be apparent they are wood.

Here's what a typical 8-foot wall section looks like, shown with one sheet of drywall attached.

 

Even though there will be a piece of trim under the 2x10 that will help keep the drywall vertical, I am concerned that the trim, only being nailed into the 2x10, will not be strong enough to resist the cellulose pressure against the drywall. I've decided to add a 1x4 behind the drywall and the 2x10 by screwing the drywall to the 1x4 before putting it up on the wall. I don't think it will be necessary to attach it to the 2x10 because the cellulose pressure against the billboard tarp sections should keep it tight. Here's a closer look.

 

Here's the view from inside the wall. Of course the exterior sheets, the cellulose and the billboard tarp sections are not shown.

 

Of course this means the 1x4 attached to the drywall will have to be tucked under the 2x10 first, then screwed to the nailers below. If this works it might actually make it easier to install the drywall. So far, without the 1x4, the first any only drywall sheet I've stood up has been difficult to hold firmly against the wall. I'll write about how it works soon. Tomorrow I've got to go find 64 feet of 1x4's.

Our first snowfall

It wasn't a lot of snow but it shows where one of our sledding runs will be. The area in front of the trees to the left has lots of birds in it most of the day. They eat seeds from the tall grasses and wildflowers. The view is from the large window where the kitchen table and benches will be.

60 degrees at 8:00 PM

Each evening I work at the new apartment, when I drive back to the rented apartment, nearly the last thing I see before I get there is the time and temperature sign on a bank a few blocks away. Tonight, on the 11th of December, the sign showed 60 degrees! Who would have thunk it?

Today we got the insulation finished in the apartment walls (except for one section in the bathroom that still needs a support for the shower). Here's what a typical wall looks like full of cellulose behind sections of billboard tarps:



For those interested in more detail, there's another picture below. For the rest of you who have better things to do, that's all for now.

Since cellulose tends to compress over time, I have left the top of each section of the exterior walls accessible from the attic so more can be added if needed. Each section is covered by the tarp which runs up the wall and is stapled to the outside of the 2X10 which supports the roof trusses. Then it is pulled over the cellulose and held in place by the pressure of a small section of foam insulation board. Here's what that looks like:



From the top, you can see the roof sheets, the insulated board section, the tarp at the top of the wall cavity and the 2X10 that supports the trusses. Also, to the right, you can see one of the plates that are used to construct the trusses.

After the ceiling drywall is installed, the insulated boards will be removed to allow air to flow freely through the eaves and out the top of the attic. Before then I'll staple vent chutes to the roof so that the blown-in cellulose will not flow over the top of the wall to the outside. I don't know how I'll hold the tarp over the top after the insulated board is removed, but we'll figure it out.

Christmas is coming

I can't believe it's been so long since I posted last.

All of the siding is installed except the peak of the walls at the east and west ends. The weather has turned nasty and there's plenty to do on the inside, so the peaks might not be finished until spring.

We are working on insulating the walls now. Since it is a pole barn, the outside walls are 7 inches thick so it takes a lot of insulation. We have chosen cellulose which is a recycled product, made here in Indiana, and also turns out to be the best insulator for the cost.

Normally it is blown into the walls, but we are filling them by hand as we put up the vapor barrier which is old billboard tarps. This picture shows the process and a typical wall section with the 2-foot spaced nailers in place.



Drywall will be installed vertically along the original outside walls and horizontally on the apartment's east wall which is vertical studs, 16 inches on center and not a true outside wall.

We started by breaking up the bales of cellulose ourselves. It was slow going and not all that effective. On Thursday we borrowed the cellulose blower from the store and blew about 30 bales into the bedroom. Sandy fed the machine for about 2 hours outside into the dark. I was inside where the cellulose was coming out of the hose, trying to bag as much as I could while it piled up like a gray snowstorm in the room. It even stuck to the walls like snow would in a blizzard.



I got a bit covered with the stuff.



From there it is bagged and dumped into the walls. The entire process still takes time, but the cellulose is ground up more finely and it was all ground up in a few hours instead of literally days which it would have taken the way we had started.

Tomorrow my son is coming from Indy to help lift and install drywall on the ceilings. Sandy and I got enough of the walls insulated today to make his trip worthwhile.

All the electrical wiring is done except for two lights and switches in the attic which can be added even after the ceiling drywall is installed. The best part of that is no more extension cords everywhere.

Our radiant floor system was delivered, too. It came on two large pallets. One had the tubing, the metal plates and the entire control panel with gauges, valves, and the no-tank water heater. The other pallet contained all the panels that will cover the floor. Stay tuned for pictures of that system.